massive update; better late than never
Dear family and friends,
As always, I have to start off by apologizing for being so long between updates on my life abroad, but I happen to have a decent amount of free time at the moment and hope that you all with bare with me while I give you a full description of the travels, mishaps and adventures that I have had since my last email. I’m not exactly sure when I last wrote you all, but it was probably around New Year’s, so let’s start from just after the “reveillon.”
Germany, a week of -21 degrees and the return of affordable prices:
Besides a few ski trips up to the Alps, my only trip outside of Lyon during my month-long winter break was when I took a week to travel and see one of my best friends from UCSD in Germany. Morgan was finishing up the tail-end of a semester in Gottingen, Germany in the north and although she warned me that there wasn’t much to do in the town for two days, let alone two weeks, I found a relatively cheap ticket on Lufthansa and headed out. I flew to Frankfurt then caught the ICE high speed rail train to Gottingen. For a week I hung out with Morgan and her other UC friends and explored the small, quaint city of Gottingen. After my first morning there we had already done the historic and scenic tour of the city which consisted of a few statues and a memorial to a synagogue that had been burned down in 1938 (apparently Gottingen had the highest concentration of Nazis in the country and still to this day has no Jewish place of gathering or worship). The rest of the week was spent catching up with a person who knows me better than most people in the world, and having that connection again made me realize just how much my year abroad has been a blank slate. Morgan knows everything about me and can interpret my life situations correctly and in the blink of an eye, while everybody back in France has no preconceptions about me but also no idea who I was before I went abroad. From either angle it is great, but reconnecting with my roots and spending a week feeling like my old, comfortable self was very refreshing. Another thing that I really noticed was how much cheaper everything in Germany is than in France. This is probably the first time that my mom is hearing this, but I actually brought a grocery bag full of food back with me to Frankfurt then on the plane to France filled with staples that either a) don’t exist in France or b) would cost me a month’s rent. Note: I did, however, get a bottle of Tapatio hot sauce that Morgan had brought me back from the States confiscated by the German customs agents; Europeans really don’t like their food spicy…
An ideal weekend of snow, foreigners and jeigerwine:
I don’t know how many of you have seen the movie “L’auberge espagnole” but I spent three days up in the French Alps just above Grenoble living out the script of the movie. I went up for a ski trip with my university that was a perfect mix of French and foreign kids enjoying some of the best powder that I have ever had in my life. Although there were seven other students from California on the trip (all of whom I like a lot), I chose not to room with them in order to meet as many new people as I could. My apartment was made up of me, a Frenchy, two Germans, an Austrian and a Swede. For three whole days we skied all day together with a handful of our other French friends, drank spiked tea and cooked huge meals. I have been pretty good all year about going out of my way not to hang out with the other Americans and to participate in activities that will get me interacting with as many new people as possible, but it wasn’t until I lived three straight days with such an eclectic group speaking almost nothing but French that I really felt at home with actually living in a foreign country. Our apartment got along so well that two nights after getting back to Lyon we had a “reunion party,” which consisted of everybody sipping delicious French wine and sitting around a table with two crepe grills going and everybody putting on whatever ingredients they wanted (nothing, and I mean nothing, quite hits the spot on a cold night like a fresh-off-the-grill hot crepe filled with warm Nutella!) I have since hung out with a few of the people from my group and am very certain that it will continue throughout the year. These guys are the same type of adventurer I am and I can tell that they are equally thankful for this incredible opportunity we have this year and want to take advantage of it as much as possible. I’ve learned that while traveling around Europe is great and seeing all this famous historical sights will stay with me forever, that’s not the goal. At the beginning of the year I could tell that I was itching to travel as much as possible, which is fine, but I was doing it more for the experience of traveling rather than the experience of where I was traveling to. It will be weird coming back to the States and feeling a little more sedentary and unable to travel, but this ski weekend really helped show me that you don’t need to hop on a flight or a train to travel, you just need to have the right mindset and the willingness to surround yourself with the same type of people. And sorry to get a little pensive, but we all had discussed our years abroad so much that weekend that I couldn’t help talk about it a bit.
London: of pints and blizzards
One of the greatest things in my life right now is that I only have classes on Wednesday and Thursday for the entire second semester, meaning that I have a gorgeous five-day weekend every week. This, of course, means that when my friend who is studying theatre in London for the year emailed me a few weeks ago saying that she was a little homesick and wondered if I could come visit, all I had to do was find a cheap flight from Lyon to London and voila, a five day trip to the UK! I had never been to England before so I was very excited to see how true the stereotypes of bad oral hygiene and fish and chips were, but mostly I was excited to see what it was going to be like being in an English-speaking country again. Up to this point I have lived in France, and traveled through Germany, Spain, Switzerland and Corsica (technically France but where they spoke enough Italian to be worth its own notation) and in all of those places I either relied on my own foreign language skills or my German-speaking friends to translate. You get very used to going around Europe in your own little world, to walking up and down streets concentrating only on what you choose to. But, the very first thing that I noticed after getting off the express train from Gatwick at Victoria Station was that I had no privacy anymore, because everybody around me understood what I was saying. All of a sudden, and for the first time in six months, I could overhear every single conversation around me without having to translate it in my head and I knew that I could no longer speak in American slang to avoid being overheard knowing that there was a very good chance everyone around me knew what I was saying. Besides the shock of hearing English everywhere, the weirdest thing was seeing signs and advertisements in English. When I first saw so many ads, my instinct was to translate them into English, or to try and read the words as if they were French, which obviously didn’t work. And speaking to strangers to order food, ask directions or purchase train tickets was actually hard for me at first, because I am way too used to approaching strangers while speaking another language, and saying “excuse me, sir, where can I purchase tickets to Paddington Station?” came out extremely forced and awkward-sounding.
Once I got over the culture shock of returning to something very close to my own culture I found myself in possibly the most diverse city that I have ever been in (sorry San Francisco, but London is probably more multi-ethnic then you are). For those of you who know me well, diversity to me mostly means new food to chow down on! Don’t get me wrong, I am in love with French cuisine, but my newly adopted land of baguettes and brie doesn’t exactly do grab-and-go, easy food as I am used to back home. The streets of London welcomed me with endless sandwich shops, pizza parlors, burger joints, authentic Asian eateries and as I would discover late Saturday night, chili cheese fries and vanilla milkshakes. I understand that this style of eating is an import from our oh-so-glorious American imperialism, and that I should be grateful that France has, for the most part, avoided it, but there was something extremely calming being back in my original gastronomic stomping grounds. Enough about the food, let me tell you about my actual visit.
We spent the majority of our weekend walking around exploring the city on foot trying to see as many spots as we could without seeming too touristy. My friend has drama classes from nine to five Monday through Friday, so while she has been in London for half a year now, she hasn’t had enough time to master the city, meaning that she was just as eager to explore as I was. We spent our days up and down Camden, all throughout the West End, on Portabella Market, in front of Parliament Building and Buckingham Palace and through every nook and cranny of SoHo and China Town. Even though I by no means saw the whole, massive city in only five days, I feel like I got a good enough feel for the city to understand it a bit. Lucky for me, Sunday happened to be the Chinese New Year’s parade which let me see a huge showing of culture diversity that doesn’t exist in the same way in France (plus, I treated myself to a delicious lunch of hot and sour soup and an incredible platter of black bean chicken). I was also lucky enough to spend a night with a British friend of mine who was an exchange student at San Diego last year, and he showed some incredible off-the-map parts of London, i.e. the coolest local pubs that I have ever been to. Besides getting the insider’s tour of London, I got to stay with him and his family’s house reminded me of my own so much that when I woke up Sunday morning I briefly thought that I was home. The Victorian style of skinny, long structures, the facades and the layout of the living room calmed me very much and if I closed my eyes I almost could believe that I was back at 4089 25th street with my family. Four months from now I won’t have to pretend, weird.
It was damn cold in London the whole time I was there, but it wasn’t until Sunday afternoon that it really started to freeze and London was hit by the worst snow storm of the past 20 years. At night we all went outside and had snowball fights and built snowmen but by the next morning the snow had gotten so bad that all busses in the entire city were shut down and most businesses closed their doors. I heard a figure that England as a whole lost just over a billion pounds in revenue for the one day, but for those tourists amongst us, it meant a London winter wonderland of exploring the cities and seeing all of the landmarks and beautiful parks under a foot and a half of snow. The only downside of this was that the markings on the ground on intersections reminding me to look left or to look right to see the opposite direction of traffic was snowed over, meaning that on more than a few occasions I stepped off of a curb only to be honked back by some wrong-side-driving, fish-and-chips eating British tyrant who, to me, seemed hell-bent on revenging the loss of 1786 by running over a very confused Yank. Granted, as I am writing this I am still in London, and my flight is scheduled to leave tonight, so there is still a chance that I am stuck in London for a few more days, but let’s cross our fingers because for as much as I travel, I do have class that I have to get to and work that has to be done.
An education worth fighting for:
The reputation of France as a politicized, active country isn’t a myth. Maybe at the beginning of the year I became a little disillusioned by the labor politics in France after witnessing a handful of confusing, one-day transit strikes, thinking that the luster of 1968 had worn off and that the strike no longer held the same importance for the country. But in the last two months I have been working very closely with our political youth group and have been helping organize my university to prepare for the wave of student, professor and professional strikes that have been taking place the past week. The day before I left for London there was a nation-wide, inter-professional strike that saw millions across the country take to the streets in a peaceful showing of worker and student solidarity to demand from the government the basic standard of living that every single person deserves.
The idea of participating in demonstrations isn’t new to me, let’s be honest here, I’m from San Francisco, but what really touches me is the way that the country mobilizes with such force and determination. Comparatively, French workers have better social services available to them, and relative to the astronomical tuition fees for American students, French university students are charged peanuts, but that doesn’t stop them from fighting even harder. I have only been in France for six months, so I can’t even start to try and understand the mentality that drives the French to stand up so fervently for what they know they deserve while my native country stands relatively idly by while social security gets robbed, health care becomes nothing more than an overpriced and privatized bandaid on a gushing wound and public education is beyond underfunded and co-opted to the demigods of standardized testing.
The students at my university are up in arms because tuition fees have risen about 200 euro to just under 2000 euro, or the equivalent of half a course at a public university back in the States. These students have every right to make these demands, but why is it that they understand the inalienable right to an affordable and quality education while students at my own UC San Diego campus could barely be bothered to sign petitions to keep our campus from being carved up into “free speech zones” last spring? I know that the histories of our two countries are very different, but that is no excuse. The world right now is a disaster, plain and simple. And if the adults and ruling bodies who will leave this mess to us aren’t willing to do everything it takes at fix it before they hand over the reins, then the charge falls to us to bring about a better world, and that starts with assuring that every single member of society has access to a quality education so that hopefully we can learn enough to not make the same mistakes that we are currently faced with. There is still a long way to go for us to get to that point, but marching on the streets of Lyon singing songs for peace and solidarity with mobilized French students gives me hope that change can actually happen. Obviously I’m not living in the States right now and can’t relate to the situation back home, but I am so much more motivated knowing that in France people are being proactive at this moment to demand that governments answer to the needs of the people, the workers, the elderly and, of course, the students.
So there it is: a nice little summary of the past month of my life. I thank you for reading this far into it. It means a lot to me that you all care enough about me to join me on my adventures via these emails. I hope to write again in a month after a February that will see me in 10 different countries! Until then, all of my love and best wishes,
Jake